10:02 PM
health advice
Spring comes and we all want to look young and attractive. To this end, many women are sent to a beauty salon, for example to get rid of wrinkles and freckles or make epilation. And instead of the desired effect on the skin can appear suddenly spots, print that is not always easy. What you need to know to prevent these phenomena and how to prepare the skin for cosmetic procedures?
Anna Margolin
Cand. Biol. Science
Surely you have heard many times from men, that spring from somewhere there is a lot of beautiful girls. The impression is that all these beauties somewhere hiding all winter, like butterflies, sleeping in their secret hideouts. Could this be the role played by the disappearance of heavy winter clothing and the transition from knitted sweaters and breeches to the tempting open blouse, thin tights and shoes on high heels? And maybe to blame hormonal storms that are raging in the spring in the blood of men and forced them to look at women completely different eyes? In my opinion, there is another explanation - a magical change in the appearance of women is explained by the fact that in the spring, many of them begin suddenly hard to care about their appearance, in order to meet the spring fully armed. The brighter the sun shines, and the more distinctly heard in the air smells of dissolving the foliage, the more active ladies begin to deal with my skin, flaws which for some reason during this period are particularly notable. Lighting has become a better, or light colors of clothes played a sinister joke, but a person who looked quite bearable in the winter, the spring was getting a trifle tired, gray and aged. And of course, in the course are all kinds of cosmetic products - nutrients and moisturizers, scrubs, decorative cosmetics. The most decisive (and secured) the fair sex are sent to the beautician to make rather a disturbance in the minds of her friends and more impressing men.
And often, to hike in the beauty salon are usually not only the standard procedure, but more drastic measures to combat wrinkles, freckles, unwanted hair, hyperkeratotic thickening of the top (horny) layer of the epidermis, etc. The ladies have decided to firmly transform, asking them to make a deep chemical peel [1], dermabrasion [2] and electrolysis [3], injection of collagen, hyaluronic acid, the toxin butulizma, gold thread implantation [4], etc. Usually, beauticians, carrying out such procedures, warns the need to train the skin to them within 2-3 weeks (it usually involves the use of antioxidants, UV filters and tools that suppress the synthesis of melanin), and that both before and after the procedure should be sure to avoid the sun and use sunscreen at each exit to the street. In practice, these recommendations were not always observed, which leads to a very distressing consequences - in the areas of skin exposed to traumatic exposure, there are spots, which nullify the whole effect of visits to a beauty salon. Fix this pigmentation is usually easy, and you have to either use a fairly severe bleaching creams, or to resort to laser skin resurfacing.
Cand. Biol. Science
Surely you have heard many times from men, that spring from somewhere there is a lot of beautiful girls. The impression is that all these beauties somewhere hiding all winter, like butterflies, sleeping in their secret hideouts. Could this be the role played by the disappearance of heavy winter clothing and the transition from knitted sweaters and breeches to the tempting open blouse, thin tights and shoes on high heels? And maybe to blame hormonal storms that are raging in the spring in the blood of men and forced them to look at women completely different eyes? In my opinion, there is another explanation - a magical change in the appearance of women is explained by the fact that in the spring, many of them begin suddenly hard to care about their appearance, in order to meet the spring fully armed. The brighter the sun shines, and the more distinctly heard in the air smells of dissolving the foliage, the more active ladies begin to deal with my skin, flaws which for some reason during this period are particularly notable. Lighting has become a better, or light colors of clothes played a sinister joke, but a person who looked quite bearable in the winter, the spring was getting a trifle tired, gray and aged. And of course, in the course are all kinds of cosmetic products - nutrients and moisturizers, scrubs, decorative cosmetics. The most decisive (and secured) the fair sex are sent to the beautician to make rather a disturbance in the minds of her friends and more impressing men.
And often, to hike in the beauty salon are usually not only the standard procedure, but more drastic measures to combat wrinkles, freckles, unwanted hair, hyperkeratotic thickening of the top (horny) layer of the epidermis, etc. The ladies have decided to firmly transform, asking them to make a deep chemical peel [1], dermabrasion [2] and electrolysis [3], injection of collagen, hyaluronic acid, the toxin butulizma, gold thread implantation [4], etc. Usually, beauticians, carrying out such procedures, warns the need to train the skin to them within 2-3 weeks (it usually involves the use of antioxidants, UV filters and tools that suppress the synthesis of melanin), and that both before and after the procedure should be sure to avoid the sun and use sunscreen at each exit to the street. In practice, these recommendations were not always observed, which leads to a very distressing consequences - in the areas of skin exposed to traumatic exposure, there are spots, which nullify the whole effect of visits to a beauty salon. Fix this pigmentation is usually easy, and you have to either use a fairly severe bleaching creams, or to resort to laser skin resurfacing.
Wicked melanin
What is the cause of unwanted pigmentation? It is clear that the pilings, causing exfoliation of the epidermis, to enhance their sensitivity to UV radiation. But why, for example, hair removal? Why do some people after cosmetic procedures relating to the violation of the integrity of the skin, hyperpigmentation occurs even when they comply with all safety precautions? These questions arise from the fact that in the minds of the dark pigmentation of the skin is firmly connected with the sun and tanning, and the pigment that causes it (melanin), is considered only an absorber of sunlight and natural UV filter, but no more. Meanwhile, things are not so simple. The fact that pigmentation occurs not only from the sun, dermatologists are well known.Cases when pigmentation occurs after infectious skin diseases, the site of inflammatory elements (papules, pustules, etc.) or healed abrasions, burns, the skin areas exposed to frequent scratching, in areas of friction with the clothes in the field of chronic inflammation and etc. The only reason for this phenomenon until recently was unknown. Close to solving this puzzle, scientists have been able only after asking a question - to what, in fact, man needs melanin, the role it plays in his skin? The first and most obvious answer - the melanin protects the skin from UV radiation while working as a UV filter. Indeed, melanin absorbs radiation over the entire range of visible light and practically the whole range of UV radiation. However, as shown by recent studies, an effective advocate of skin cells, it is only in the skin of Negroids, which contains a large, evenly distributed pigment granules. The skin of white people the melanin is distributed less than successful - almost exclusively in the basal layer (the deepest layer of skin over which is more up to 4 layers) and individual clusters of small granules, which are often left unprotected from UV radiation vital part of the cells. In addition, as it turned out, the melanin absorbs ultraviolet radiation, emits toxic molecules - free radicals that can damage skin cells. We have to admit that melanin - not a very good UV filter, and can not be a reliable protection (at least for the skin of white people). It should be noted that we did not attack the melanin, unable to protect white people from the sun. Just nature lover to distribute all the sisters on earrings, allowing the person to settle not only on solar Africa, adjusted the intensity of melanogenesis in accordance with relevant latitudes. It is very desirable to be denied the meager coverage required, for example, to form in the skin of vital vitamin D because of the thick layer of melanin. Now, when people can move around the Earth in any direction, you just do not forget about your constitutional type, in this case - skin type. With regard to melanin, it plays an important role in the skin of white people, because his role is not limited to functions of your screen. Let us turn to the process of melanin synthesis. Melanin (melanin or rather, since this group of pigments) is synthesized in the melanocytes - Process large cells that sit in the basal layer of epidermis. Precursors of melanin are colorless substances which become colored only in the final stages of the process. Were recently obtained evidence to support their very important role. Firstly, the colorless melanin are very powerful antioxidants (molecules that neutralize free radicals), and secondly, they reduce inflammation caused by many different factors. This allowed scientists to make a bold assumption that they have protective properties, and that their synthesis is the main task of melanocytes, with colored melanins are something of a by-product. If so, then the colorless precursors of melanin synthesis should not only be associated with UV radiation. He must be activated in all cases where the skin threatens to attack free radicals, or the development of inflammation. So it turned out - experiments have shown that activation of melanocytes occurs in response to substances that produce skin cells subjected to the damaging effects, as well as all the processes that are accompanied by the appearance of free radicals. Thus, melanocytes play the role of advanced border post, which is activated when the first sign of invasion of the enemy.We turn to cosmetic procedures. It does not matter whether they lead to a decrease in the thickness of the stratum corneum or not, the question is, how much they hurt the skin. If the traumatic impact applicable to the skin is enough to activate its defense system, it can also lead to the activation of melanin synthesis with all the consequences. Thus, the hyperpigmentation may cause:
1.Any procedures that cause thinning of the stratum corneum - all types of chemical peels, laser resurfacing, dermabrasion.
2.All procedures are accompanied by injury of the skin - subcutaneous injection, the introduction of any implanted material, cleansing in acne, cosmetic surgery.
3.Anything that causes irritation to the skin - all types of hair removal, cosmetics cause allergic reactions or have toxic effects on cells.
What is the cause of unwanted pigmentation? It is clear that the pilings, causing exfoliation of the epidermis, to enhance their sensitivity to UV radiation. But why, for example, hair removal? Why do some people after cosmetic procedures relating to the violation of the integrity of the skin, hyperpigmentation occurs even when they comply with all safety precautions? These questions arise from the fact that in the minds of the dark pigmentation of the skin is firmly connected with the sun and tanning, and the pigment that causes it (melanin), is considered only an absorber of sunlight and natural UV filter, but no more. Meanwhile, things are not so simple. The fact that pigmentation occurs not only from the sun, dermatologists are well known.Cases when pigmentation occurs after infectious skin diseases, the site of inflammatory elements (papules, pustules, etc.) or healed abrasions, burns, the skin areas exposed to frequent scratching, in areas of friction with the clothes in the field of chronic inflammation and etc. The only reason for this phenomenon until recently was unknown. Close to solving this puzzle, scientists have been able only after asking a question - to what, in fact, man needs melanin, the role it plays in his skin? The first and most obvious answer - the melanin protects the skin from UV radiation while working as a UV filter. Indeed, melanin absorbs radiation over the entire range of visible light and practically the whole range of UV radiation. However, as shown by recent studies, an effective advocate of skin cells, it is only in the skin of Negroids, which contains a large, evenly distributed pigment granules. The skin of white people the melanin is distributed less than successful - almost exclusively in the basal layer (the deepest layer of skin over which is more up to 4 layers) and individual clusters of small granules, which are often left unprotected from UV radiation vital part of the cells. In addition, as it turned out, the melanin absorbs ultraviolet radiation, emits toxic molecules - free radicals that can damage skin cells. We have to admit that melanin - not a very good UV filter, and can not be a reliable protection (at least for the skin of white people). It should be noted that we did not attack the melanin, unable to protect white people from the sun. Just nature lover to distribute all the sisters on earrings, allowing the person to settle not only on solar Africa, adjusted the intensity of melanogenesis in accordance with relevant latitudes. It is very desirable to be denied the meager coverage required, for example, to form in the skin of vital vitamin D because of the thick layer of melanin. Now, when people can move around the Earth in any direction, you just do not forget about your constitutional type, in this case - skin type. With regard to melanin, it plays an important role in the skin of white people, because his role is not limited to functions of your screen. Let us turn to the process of melanin synthesis. Melanin (melanin or rather, since this group of pigments) is synthesized in the melanocytes - Process large cells that sit in the basal layer of epidermis. Precursors of melanin are colorless substances which become colored only in the final stages of the process. Were recently obtained evidence to support their very important role. Firstly, the colorless melanin are very powerful antioxidants (molecules that neutralize free radicals), and secondly, they reduce inflammation caused by many different factors. This allowed scientists to make a bold assumption that they have protective properties, and that their synthesis is the main task of melanocytes, with colored melanins are something of a by-product. If so, then the colorless precursors of melanin synthesis should not only be associated with UV radiation. He must be activated in all cases where the skin threatens to attack free radicals, or the development of inflammation. So it turned out - experiments have shown that activation of melanocytes occurs in response to substances that produce skin cells subjected to the damaging effects, as well as all the processes that are accompanied by the appearance of free radicals. Thus, melanocytes play the role of advanced border post, which is activated when the first sign of invasion of the enemy.We turn to cosmetic procedures. It does not matter whether they lead to a decrease in the thickness of the stratum corneum or not, the question is, how much they hurt the skin. If the traumatic impact applicable to the skin is enough to activate its defense system, it can also lead to the activation of melanin synthesis with all the consequences. Thus, the hyperpigmentation may cause:
1.Any procedures that cause thinning of the stratum corneum - all types of chemical peels, laser resurfacing, dermabrasion.
2.All procedures are accompanied by injury of the skin - subcutaneous injection, the introduction of any implanted material, cleansing in acne, cosmetic surgery.
3.Anything that causes irritation to the skin - all types of hair removal, cosmetics cause allergic reactions or have toxic effects on cells.
Precautionary measures
Additionally, a tendency to skin hyperpigmentation increase certain substances that increase sensitivity to UV radiation (photosensitizers). To reduce the risk of hyperpigmentation after cosmetic procedures, you must follow these rules:
1.Do not neglect the recommended skin preparation for the procedure.
2.After the procedure, not to stop the use of UV-filters before the recommended period.Should be aware that hyperpigmentation can occur even when irradiated skin through the glass. And more so, you can not tan, even with sunscreen.
3.Select the least traumatic of the proposed treatments.
4. If you are taking medication, consult with your doctor, do not increase if they are skin sensitivity to the sun. Do not take St. John's wort extract (it is a photosensitizer) and do not get involved in herbs such as celery, fennel, etc., do not use before going out of photosensitizing essential oils (oil of bergamot, oil of citrus).
5.Following the procedures leading to a decrease in the thickness of the epidermis, it is necessary to use the drug, which protect the skin from the damaging factors and accelerate its recovery.
Alas, we have to bear in mind that procedures designed to change the skin for the better, it is often perceived by cells as a real aggression to which they may respond by inflammation and activation of melanin synthesis. The risk of hyperpigmentation is especially great in the spring, when the skin is not ready yet for a meeting with a deceptively gentle spring sunshine. So, before you plan spring activities to improve appearance, should not only be good to weigh all the pros and cons, but think of all the precautions to help avoid unwanted complications.
Additionally, a tendency to skin hyperpigmentation increase certain substances that increase sensitivity to UV radiation (photosensitizers). To reduce the risk of hyperpigmentation after cosmetic procedures, you must follow these rules:
1.Do not neglect the recommended skin preparation for the procedure.
2.After the procedure, not to stop the use of UV-filters before the recommended period.Should be aware that hyperpigmentation can occur even when irradiated skin through the glass. And more so, you can not tan, even with sunscreen.
3.Select the least traumatic of the proposed treatments.
4. If you are taking medication, consult with your doctor, do not increase if they are skin sensitivity to the sun. Do not take St. John's wort extract (it is a photosensitizer) and do not get involved in herbs such as celery, fennel, etc., do not use before going out of photosensitizing essential oils (oil of bergamot, oil of citrus).
5.Following the procedures leading to a decrease in the thickness of the epidermis, it is necessary to use the drug, which protect the skin from the damaging factors and accelerate its recovery.
Alas, we have to bear in mind that procedures designed to change the skin for the better, it is often perceived by cells as a real aggression to which they may respond by inflammation and activation of melanin synthesis. The risk of hyperpigmentation is especially great in the spring, when the skin is not ready yet for a meeting with a deceptively gentle spring sunshine. So, before you plan spring activities to improve appearance, should not only be good to weigh all the pros and cons, but think of all the precautions to help avoid unwanted complications.
Carefully, photosensitizers!
* Retinoids, which are recommended for the treatment of acne and to remove the signs of aging skin, enhance exfoliation of the stratum corneum and accelerate skin renewal. However, they increase skin sensitivity to UV radiation. Therefore, to prevent uneven pigmentation, you need to apply sunscreen during the entire period of treatment with retinoids. The presence of the skin (or skin) of the additional photosensitizing agent may lead to a significant increase in skin sensitivity to UV radiation and Development fotodermatita, despite all precautions.
Cosmetics containing polyunsaturated vegetable oils.
* Oils with a high content of polyunsaturated fatty acids are a popular cosmetic ingredient. They remove dry, flaky skin, improve its barrier properties, reduce the inflammatory reaction. However, they have one serious drawback - they are rapidly oxidized in the sun, resulting from them are the active forms of oxygen and other oxidation products are toxic to the skin. In turn, the UV radiation also leads to the formation of reactive oxygen species in the skin. In the presence of photosensitizers actively attending the oxidation of polyunsaturated fatty acids and the formation of reactive oxygen species in the skin that leads to the development of phototoxic reactions.
*Essential oils often contain photoreactivity of substance, but in addition they may contain other substances, irritating the skin and increase its sensitivity.
*Paradoxically, among UV filters that are included in sunscreens, there are also photosensitizers. These substances include PAVA (P-aminobenzoic acid), which, however, are excluded from virtually all sunscreen formulations.
*Photoreactivity of the substance may be contained in deodorants, antibacterial soaps and other cosmetic products.
*Photosensitizing properties are, for example, antihistamines, sulfonamides, some nonsteroidal antiinflammatory drugs, antibiotics (eg tetracycline), an extract of hypericum
* Retinoids, which are recommended for the treatment of acne and to remove the signs of aging skin, enhance exfoliation of the stratum corneum and accelerate skin renewal. However, they increase skin sensitivity to UV radiation. Therefore, to prevent uneven pigmentation, you need to apply sunscreen during the entire period of treatment with retinoids. The presence of the skin (or skin) of the additional photosensitizing agent may lead to a significant increase in skin sensitivity to UV radiation and Development fotodermatita, despite all precautions.
Cosmetics containing polyunsaturated vegetable oils.
* Oils with a high content of polyunsaturated fatty acids are a popular cosmetic ingredient. They remove dry, flaky skin, improve its barrier properties, reduce the inflammatory reaction. However, they have one serious drawback - they are rapidly oxidized in the sun, resulting from them are the active forms of oxygen and other oxidation products are toxic to the skin. In turn, the UV radiation also leads to the formation of reactive oxygen species in the skin. In the presence of photosensitizers actively attending the oxidation of polyunsaturated fatty acids and the formation of reactive oxygen species in the skin that leads to the development of phototoxic reactions.
*Essential oils often contain photoreactivity of substance, but in addition they may contain other substances, irritating the skin and increase its sensitivity.
*Paradoxically, among UV filters that are included in sunscreens, there are also photosensitizers. These substances include PAVA (P-aminobenzoic acid), which, however, are excluded from virtually all sunscreen formulations.
*Photoreactivity of the substance may be contained in deodorants, antibacterial soaps and other cosmetic products.
*Photosensitizing properties are, for example, antihistamines, sulfonamides, some nonsteroidal antiinflammatory drugs, antibiotics (eg tetracycline), an extract of hypericum
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